Jama Masjid

One of the best mosques in the world this is the India’s largest mosque, which was build by Shahjahan in between 1650-1656.  This majestic mosque is set on a high platform, and is reached by steps on the north, south and east.  Here 20,000 people can pray at same time.  Built in red, white and black stone this mosque is Shahjahan’s last work.  The rectangular prayer hall has magnificent façade of arches decorated with marble frames and inscribed panels.  The towering minarets of the mosque dominate Old Delhi; a climb to the top of the minarets provides an excellent view of the city.

It is flanked by two minars, built in alternate vertical strips of red sandstone and white marble each containing 130 steps.  There are three gateways in the mosque, the east gateway being the largest.  Each gateway is made accessible by long wide flights of stone steps, 30 steps facing the north gate, 35 steps facing the east gate and 33 facing the south gate.

More about Jama Masjid
The Jama Masjid, meaning Friday mosque. Standing on a mound called Bhojla Pahar, the great royal mosque – one of the largest of Islam – was designed by Ustad Khlil who placed it on a high plinth to show off its glowing red sandstone inlaid with marble and brass.  It was at first named Masjid-I-Jahan Nama (mosque with a view of the world).  Certainly, its two slender minarets flanking the three black-and-white striped, marble, onion domes of the prayer-hall dominate Old Delhi. The faithful ceaselessly stream up and down the steep north steps to the courtyard.  Here they wash, study the Quran, pray and join visitors to gaze at the fort through the arcades, which are especially beautiful under soft morning sunlight.  When pious Aurangzeb came to prayer riding a decorated elephant or carried in a golden throne, the streets from fort to mosque were doused with water to reduce heat and dust and were lined with 300 musketeers. (It is sometimes possible to go up a minaret, worth the climb for a bird’s-eye view of the city.)

The area around Jama Masjid seethes with Muslim life.  On the south side, the air is scented with spices from the cluster of tiny restaurants.  Further round, the markets sell baskets of clucking white chickens and an assortment of weird-shaped fish.  Shah Jahan’s daughter, Jahanara Begum, built Urdu Bazar which runs off to the east.  Back on the west side, every conceivable car part and size of tyre spills out from busy workshops.  In sharp contrast, Delhi ivory work is patiently carved behind Ivory Mart’s and Wedding Cards shops front on the north side.  Then come the fireworks shops, supplemented by roadside stalls at festival time.  Fireworks displays are an old Indian tradition (paintings show princesses playing with fireworks on palace terraces).  Huge wooden elephants or gods dissolve into a mass of crackers at Hindu festivals; and one current favourite rocket has a plastic mini Ganesh (the elephant-headed god) who descends in a parachute.

The lane running north from the mosque’s north steps leads to Dariba Kalan, a turning on the left, which emerges into Chandni Chowk (to avoid getting lost, it is best to check by asking).  The narrow paths twist between the high walls of ancient havelis (courtyard houses) with carved wooden doorways, some still home for descendants of Mughal traders, other still owned by families who now live in the air-conditioned comfort of south Delhi colonies.  Tiny, polychrome temples are jammed between them, goldsmiths sit cross-legged working miracles with nimble fingers, cows laze about nonchalantly and a paan seller trundles his box of ingredients from one customer to the next.


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